We did see hammerheads - there is a most amazing dive site at Cocos called Alcyone - it seems to be hammerhead haven. We dived there twice - seeing hammerheads and witnessing their curiosity as they came quite close by us and the other divers. We didn't witness the huge numbers often seen here but they totally kept us entertained for the duration of the dives. One of the Alcyone dives was in a relatively strong current. Damien and I found it exhilarating but it did underline that the diving here wasn't easy warm water diving. We did have some of those fun dives - flippant headstands at 30m but on the whole we tried to be well-behaved disciplined divers (??!!)
Oh and we had fantastic dives with silvertip sharks. These are larger than the common reef sharks and have the familiar 'Jaws'-like features being chunky in the body with a more pointed head. They tend not to shoal together so the appearance of a lone shark approaching close can really make your heart beat faster. Totally thrilling!
Aside from the sharks, the underwater scenery was inspiring too - it is easy to see why photographers love the place. Underwater arches and swim throughs, walls and gullies, shallow sands and deep blue voids. Macro and wide angle, action and stillness. Breathtaking.
Words fail me - I haven't even mentioned the Costa Rican Army; tales of Galapagos; Cocos by rib and guanabana - ask me about them some time. I hope the photos do it more justice.
When the time came I felt sorry to my core to have to return from there. Sad also to say goodbye to our companions.
I'm now sat waiting to board our flight onwards to London. Damn!